When you can buy a $20 item from Dick Smith why would you fork out nearly $200 for a top-of-the-line model? There are two basic options for many things in life: solid and reliable versus the quality thing which looks twice as good. Looks aren't everything but Ron Prouse's desire knows no price range.
You so need an LCD display.
The MatrixNothing looks quite as uber as an LCD display mounted in a modded computer case, displaying system-critical data. Or a Winamp vis. This is especially true when that display just happens to be the Matrix Orbital LK204-25PC. The moment I first set eyes on its white background, with high-resolution blue text -- I just had to have one!
Start with an accurate template.
This is not a product review, but I think that it is important to explain some of the qualities to look out for when buying an LCD display, and why the Matrix Orbital www.matrixorbital.com/ display commands so much respect among modders.
* Quality displays make use of serial (RS-232) port connectivity, at data transfer rates up to 19.2k baud for alphanumeric applications, and 5fps or higher refresh rates. To me, this is an important factor, as it determines both the look of the display and the speed that data can be refreshed. The only word for serial connection is. . . crisp! According to a reliable source, in the near future you will be able to substitute the term 'serial' for 'USB' in the above paragraph.
* Products like the LK204-PC also offer extra functionality, such as the 'general purpose outputs' (GPOs) that can be used to control lights, relays, pumps, fans, etc. This particular unit has 8 x 750mA ,12-volt, software-controlled power outputs. Yes, software controlled and easily programmed! Perfect for controlling a remote FanBus. It is even possible to overclock the GPOs!
* Another advantage of buying a display that has been designed for a specific use is that you can either buy 'bare-bones', or option-in everything that you need (from cables to keyboards) for an 'out-of-the-box' installation.
* LCD-centric software is plentiful, with many share and freeware programs written by case modders, or coders with us in mind. Linux users will feel especially loved on this score! The LK204-25PC comes with a CD that has a good selection of programs, with lots of hyperlinks to useful sites as well.
Mounting the unit is simple.
IMHO, these are the type of things that separate the 'fantastically good' from the 'unimpressively average'. Sure, there is an appreciable difference in initial purchase price, but a Porsche will always cost more than a Hyundai, and your high-quality LCD screen can be moved from case to case for many years to come (apologies to the Australian Hyundai Owners Club).
Fitting the ScreenThe easiest method of fitting a Matrix Orbital LCD is to purchase one of the factory 5.25in face plates. However, due to the PCB size, you will also lose some of the 'access' to any bays above (or below) the installation site. In my PC, there are just too many peripherals vying for that scarce bit of 5.25in real estate, so I needed another solution.
The answer was simple: make use of those spare 3.5in floppy bays that I can never work out what to do with!
Now, this tutorial started life as a 'specific' mod for the Cooler Master ATC-210, but the same principals can be adapted to any flat surface of your PC -- in a window, the case top, or even a desktop breakout box.
Accurately cut the two bezels.
Now, the first thing to do is to make sure that there is going to be enough room behind the bezel for the LCD PCB and connections to fit. The Cooler Master is perfect for this, as the bays are in the centre of the case, and there is approximately 20mm depth of free space behind the bezel area. Remember, there needs to be enough room to allow for the circuit-board and connections, not just the display area.
To get the 'screwless' (the story of my life, really) look, I had to make two separate mounting plates -- a rear mounting plate and a front fascia, cut out of a left-over piece of Lian Li side cover. As always, I have covered the sheet metal with masking tape, to stop it getting scratched whilst working on it. This also has the added advantage of making it easier to draw the cutting guide lines on the surface.
Mounting, Screwing and StickingThe next step is to determine the positions for the screw holes on the front fascia plate. After drilling 2mm pilot holes, the dimensions were transferred onto the bezel. To attach the display I am using standard 3mm 'computer screws', so the retaining holes in the fascia were drilled out to 4mm, to allow for some final adjustment of the screen in relation to the opening in the case.
Four 2.75mm mounting holes, 4mm deep, were drilled into the back of the bezel plate, and then tapped to accept the mounting screws. The 5mm thick, solid aluminium bezel is one trait of the Cooler Master that other case brands probably won't have, so for this step you may have to drill the screw holes right through the front of your case.
Once the screen viewing area was cut out of the fascia plate using a Dremel, the mounting plate was cut and drilled to accept the LCD module. The adhesive template that is supplied with the LK-204PC makes this part particularly easy. It is important to countersink the screws that secure the module, so that the two plates will sit flat against each other and not leave a gap between them. Once the module has been attached to the mounting plate, cut out a section of the supplied black cover-trim decal to the same size as the outside dimensions of the display, and stick it into place.
The final assembly is simply a matter of aligning everything into the centre of the opening and screwing it into place with the four bezel screws. Once the power and serial cables are connected, and the bezel is fitted back on, it is simply a matter of firing up the computer and assigning COM port settings. As I mentioned at the start, the LK-204PC display is crystal clear, and the information is provides is easy to read at a glance. There is even software brightness and contrast control. Finally, there is a use for those legacy 3.5' bays that actually makes the Cooler Master look, well, much cooler.
Issue: 137 | June, 2012